CHB PILOT

INDEX

Preamble

CHB Pedigree

Taiwanese Built Vessels

CHB Syles 1973 TO 1985Current

Builder of CHB’s

The Price To Pay

Schedule of Standard Maintenance Intervals

What To Look For “Categories”

Hull and Decks

Engine

Log Book

Engine Hours

Engine Mounts

Raw Water Pump

Oil Test

Exhaust and Water Lift Muffler

Gauges

Maintenance Issues

Oil Change

Oil Filter Change

Fuel Filter Change

Heat Exchanger

Windows and Portholes

Refrigeration

Electrical

Plumbing

Fresh Water System

Holding Tanks

Heads

Macerator

Anchors

Bilge

Cabins and Interiors

Mechanical

Steering and Throttle

Safety Equipment

Fuel System

Filter Types

Lines

Tanks

Fuel

Cleaning

Propane System

Stove

BBQ

Lines and Tanks

Electronics

Heating

Propeller

PREAMBLE

The CHB Pilot was put together for use as a referral list for maintenance items and for those who are interested in buying a CHB and want to know what to look for in the initial inspections and subsequent surveys as the sale is brought to completion. This Pilot Guide is not limited to the CHB vessel but can be used in the purchase of a number of like vessels as most of the categories are common amongst all vessels. The chief reason that makes this guide a CHB GUIDE will be the “Lessons Learned” sections associated with most of the categories. This will detail comments made by various members about their experiences with certain categories and hopefully will be the really helpful area for members of the CHB Group.

CHB PEDGREE

While very interesting and helpful in explaining variations in our boats ,the current discussion of CHB pedigrees must be taken in the greater context.

We are not an "Exclusive Brand Name" group. Rather it is the tremendous variation of our Taiwan built Trawlers that has caused us to come together to provide mutual help in sorting out the "Maze of Hwa." I write this because I don't want anyone to feel that they might not belong because they don't have a "real" CHB. If you have read the material presented so far concerning the pedigree of CHB, FHB, CBK, ECT you realize that there is no one "real" CHB. And if you have been around long enough you realize that we are definitely not an "exclusive" group....that is, pinkies in the air while we sip our tea. While we may not be able (nor willing) to pin down a singular definition of who we are (from MT to KK), we do know that we are not USP :-)

Ron & Marilyn Sallee "Arwetheryet" CHB 34 Everett, WA

TAIWANESE BULT VESSELS AND OTHERS

1. Chung Hwa
2. Chien Hwa
3. Fu Hwa
4. Art DeFevers MMC
5. C&L trawler
6. Northsea
7. Puget Trawler
8. Trawler Southern Cross
9. La Paz
10. Marine Trader
11. Golden Coasts
12. Tradewinds
13. Polarus
14. Hampton (Fu Hwa or Wha)
15. Present
16. President
17. Ponderosa
18. Senator
19. Heritage (Chien Hwa)
20. Escort
21. C&L
22. Eurobanker
23. Royal Star
24. Krogen Manatee
25. Chung Haw [Magellan]

CHB STYLES 1973 TO 1985

48' CHB Ponderosa 1985	42' CHB Heritage 1983	34' CHB Double Cabin 1979
48' CHB Sundeck 1984	42' CHB NOVA Sundeck 1986	34' CHB Trawler 1979
48' CHB Paradise 1986	41' CHB 1981	34' CHB Double Cabin 1978
48' CHB Seamaster 1987	41' CHB Trawler 1979	34' CHB Trawler 1978
46' CHB Aft Cabin 1988	41' CHB North Sea 1979	34' CHB Tri Cabin Trawler 1978
46' CHB 1988	38' CHB Double Cabin 1980	34' CHB 1978
46' CHB Motoryacht 1988	35' CHB Aft-cabin 1980	34' CHB Double Cabin 1978
46' CHB Aft Cabin 1988	35' CHB Aft Cabin 1979	34' CHB Trawler 1977
46' CHB Ponderosa 1985	35' CHB Ponderosa 1986	34' CHB Tri Cabin Trawler 1975
46' CHB Aft Cabin Traw1981	34' CHB Aft Cabin 2002	34' CHB Tri - Cabin 1974
45' CHB Sedan Trawler 1983	34' CHB TriCabin Trawl 1981	34' CHB Fly Bridge Sedan 1973
45' CHB Sedan 1981	34' CHB Aft Cabin 1980	34' CHB F/B Sedan 1972
45' CHB Chung Hwa 1981	34' CHB Aft Cabin 1979	34' CHB Trawler 1972
45' CHB 1981	34’ CHB 1979	33' CHB 1973

Courtesy Jay Kerr Message #3585

CURRENT CHB BUILDERS

The builder of the "CHB" is NINBO FU-HAI FRP BOAT BUILDING CO . It is located in Ningbo COMMUNIST CHINA. They have just entered an agreement with Newfoundland to market yachts in Canada.

Courtesy of Charles Culotta message #3540

THE PRICE TO PAY

(Three levels depending where you are in the process)

1. The price for which a boat lover will hand over the keys with a tear in his eye.

2. The price a starry eyed owner needs to move up to the boat he now wants.

3. The amount he'll take when he's got two footitis, or after he's already bought another.

SCHEDULE OF STANDARD MAINTENANCE INTERVALS

50 Hours

· Change oil in injection pumps

· Check air cleaner for cleanliness

· Check heat exchanger zinc pencils

200 Hours

· Oil and filter change

· Replace all fuel filters

· Remove injection pump gauze filter wash in solvent, dip in engine oil, replace

· Change transmission oil

· Adjust belt tension (should move ~1/4"

· Adjust strap bolts

· Tighten alternator mounting

· Clean fuel lift pump

· Clean injection pump cover filter

400 Hours

· Remove and service injectors

· Adjust valve clearance

· Remove raw water pump; check drive coupling; grease coupling halves when replacing

· Adjust idle speed

1200 Hours

· Replace transmission coolers (w/CuNi)

· Replace antifreeze

· Flush fresh water system

· Inspect exhaust elbow for blockage
Check overflow tank-should be clear-install new cap and reclaim bottle

· Check motor mounts and engine supports

· Check all hoses and piping for failure, softness, chafing-especially inlet fuel supply line going into bottom of fuel lift pump
Check exhaust system

· Replace Kong-Halvorsen riser if installed directly on rear of exhaust manifold

1500 Hours

· Replace oil coolers with CuNi

Annual

· Inspect all steering connections, sprockets shafts, support bearings, turn buckles

· Inspect rudder supports and travel

· Inspect shaft packing

· Align engine/drive shafts

· Check hydraulic system for leaks

· Transmission oil analysis (Borg Warner model CR2-1013-000-006)

· Check AC Delco temp gauges-Tend to give false readings as they age (see pg 34-19, mtoa)

· Replace secondary fuel filters

· Change transmission oil and filters

Every Three Seasons

· Change raw water impeller

· Repaint bottom and inspect all underwater

· Inspect props for balance and damage

Courtesy Anne & David Mensel message #3271

“WHAT TO LOOK FOR” CATEGORIES

1. Hull and Decks

1. Inspect all thru hull fittings looking for salt crystal build-up indicating leaks or seepage. Check all through hull valves for smooth operation (open/close)
2. Hull surveyor needs to tap the entire hull for water damage - these boats are known for upper cabin structural damage due to water leaks around the windows predominately but there are other areas as well that will leak if not maintained.
3. While not generally a problem with CHB’s, Check for hull blistering
4. Teak decks are a problem in CHB vessels particularly the teak decks on the aft cabin and wheelhouse. Many CHB owners have replaced the upper teak decks with fiberglass.
5. Keel Inspection – In the original construction many of these hulls came together along the keel which was then glassed over. If there has been damage to the keel i.e. hitting bottom there could be delaminating of the glass along the keel line which would not be visible from the inside.

2. Engine

1. Log Book

i. Not all boat operators keep maintenance records for engine work but if they are available it’s a good source as to how the boat was maintained.

2. Engine Hours

i. High hours on a diesel engine don’t necessarily mean problems, Lehman engines, for example, are excellent diesel engines and can go over 20,000 hours without a rebuild if they are well maintained.  On the other hand an engine with low hours on it, if not a rebuild, can be a problem in that the fuel injectors can gum up from the sitting fuel.

3. Engine Mounts

i. Look closely at the engine bed stringers and support structures in the engine compartment, check for dry rot, soft spongy areas, use your nose to sniff out diesel soaked timbers  

ii. Check your engine mounts to ensure they are solid and not mounted in rotting stringers.  Also check to ensure mounts are tight and have not loosened due to vibration

4. Raw Water Pump

i. Listen and check play in the bearing – a noisy bearing can be heard by using a wooden dowel such as a broom handle and placing is on the pump close to the bearing and putting the other end at your ear

5. Oil Test

i. Taking a Sample - Oil samples should be taken after complete shut down. One common method of sampling is from the drain plug while changing the oil. Take the sample about halfway through the drain. Results usually confirm the levels of wear metals, contaminants and metal additives. They also use Infra-red to identify solids, glycol, viscosity, fuel dilution, water, alkalinity and acidity.

ii. Understanding the Results of an Oil Test - Oil analysis will detect these microscopic wear particles long before your equipment starts to vibrate, heat up, or show observable signs of wear. Analysis also evaluates the oil's ability to seal, cool, clean and lubricate as well as detect contamination by water, coolant, other fluids, or particulates.

6. Exhaust and Water Lift Muffler

i. Do a thorough inspection looking for rust particularly the hose connections at the heat riser of the exhaust and the condition of the hose between the muffler and the exhaust manifold

7. Gauges

i. Compare your gauges between stations and check for similar readings.  Does the engine have electronic, mechanical or both oil gauges? Mechanical gauges are truer reading of oil pressure.

3. Maintenance Issues

1. Oil Change

i. Check log books for servicing – Oil should have been changed every 200 hours maximum

2. Oil Filter Change

i. Check log books for servicing - Filters should have been changed every 200 hours maximum

3. Fuel Filters

i. Check log books for servicing – filters should have been changed every 200 hours maximum

ii. Check the fuel filter system –most have a primary followed by a secondary set of filters and many older systems have been replaced by the dual Racor Fuel filter System or equivalent – shut off valves should be part of the system

iii. Fuel Injection Pump – Check log book – oil changes every 50 hours

4. Heat Exchanger

i. Last serviced –Tubes cleaned

ii. Heat exchanger age – Depends on maintenance but 20 to 25 years seem to be the longevity

iii. Sacrificial Zincs - Change when zinc has lost more than 50% of its original length or content

4. Windows and Portholes

1. Test for water damage around windows and port holes – tap and listen for the characteristic dull thud of water damaged areas. Push on the area where the hull meets window/port hole/door/hatch openings and look for sponginess
2. Inspect wood frames for water damage discoloring
3. Inspect both inside and outside of the window frame for signs of leaks
4. Inspect the gasket for portholes that open – look for aged cracked gaskets that will need replacing
5. Inspect the condition of the caulking around the outer edge of porthole or window for sign of shrinkage or other deterioration
6. Inspect the drain holes in the base of cabin windows – are they clear?
7. Inspect the window sliding tracks – original tracks are white plastic material and can be brittle and easy to break –
8. Have the window been re-bedded? When?

5. Refrigeration

1. Type – 12volt, 110 volt or Combination
2. Age – test working condition
3. Inspection – remove lower motor covering for inspection and listen to the compressor

6. Electrical

1. Inspect wiring wear, loose terminals and for age and corrosion deterioration
2. Move all switches on the electrical panel
3. How many sets of batteries – normally there are a house set and a starter The starter set is usually one 8D and the house set can be from 2 to 10 deep cycle batteries connected to give
4. The anchor winch should be wired directly to and from the battery
5. Age? Are there shut of switches? Is the boat wired so that the house can be used to start the engine if the starter battery is discharged?

7. Plumbing

1. Fresh Water System

i. Tanks- water tanks on a 34’ Tri Cabin are located at the stern and you can inspect them by opening the lazarette and removing the stowage shelf – inspect for corrosion - leaks

ii. Pumps

iii. Lines/Hoses

iv. Wash downs

2. Heads

i. If you have heads, check the flushing mechanism for each and look for leaks or obvious staining. 

3. Holding Tanks

i. If you have holding tanks check all lines and if you have macerator pumps, check/inspect lines and operation very carefully.  Look for staining at all connections and use your nose for obvious odours.

4. Macerator Pumps

i. Check the operation of each pump

8. Anchors

1. Inspect the size and condition of the anchor and rode. Inspect the anchor locker- generally accessed through a hatch in the forward cabin. Check the condition of the bitter end of the rode and its connection to the bollard, or bow structure of the vessel

9. Bilge

1. What is in the bilge?  Water, Water/oil, oil or nothing; nothing is preferable.  The engine bilge on the 1976 CHB Tri –Cabin is self--contained if oil or water leaks from the engine.  Water from all other areas of the vessel collect in the keel and drain to the mid-ship section, and are pumped from there by a float activated bilge pump through the hull above the water line.  Check how water from leaking thru hulls or stuffing box is channelled and evacuated from the boat. Shower waters drain to two separate collection boxes located fore and aft in the bilge. These are drained by float switch activated bilge pumps.

10. Cabins and Interiors

1. Make sure your hull surveyor taps the entire cabin structure for water damage - these boats are known for upper cabin structural damage due to water leaks around the windows in particular.
2. Check around the interior of the sliding hatches
3. Check for interior water stains – remember wall paper hides a multitude of sins

11. Mechanical

1. Steering and Throttle

i. If steering is hydraulic check for leaks – turn wheel lock to lock and test underway

ii. If mechanical inspect chain drives at the upper and lower helms and at the rudder

b. Shaft and Stuffing Box – Inspect for correct lubrication 1 drop of water about every 5 seconds - If assessable check the shaft tubes where they come thru the Hull and the keel bed.

3. Check the condition of the shaft tube look for electrolysis
4. Rudder and Rudder Stock – Check for leaks and wobble Check the condition of the mounting bolts
5. when you take the boat out for bottom inspection check the cutlass bearings and rudder for play

12. Safety Equipment

1. Is the boat equipped as required by Coast Guard?
2. Fire Extinguisher – last serviced – are they up to date
3. Life Jackets – Are they Approved by Coast Guard?
4. Flares – are they up to date?
5. Test bilge pumps – inspect float switches and test for

13. Fuel System

1. Filters Type – original or have they been replaced
2. Lines – Inspect for age – cracks and stress marks and chafe – feel under all connections for leaks
3. Tanks

i. Steel

1. Age – if original look for rust particularly on the tops of the tank where water leaking from the decks may settle Most CHB came with steel tanks and many are needing to be replaced pending maintenance

2. Check areas around the base of the tank

4. Fuel

i. Has fuel additive been added to the fuel – what type and when?

ii. Age – How long has the fuel been in the tanks an does it need to be polished – requires pumping and filtering

5. Cleaning – Have the tanks ever been cleaned – when?

14. Propane System

1. Stove – Check the condition of the main feed line = the line should be one continuous run from tank or safety valve to stove
2. BBQ – condition and date of tank(s)
3. Lines and Tanks – inspect and test for leaks around couplings using a sudsy dish soap solution applied with brush at the joints. If leaks are present bubbles will appears when the solution is applied.

15. Electronics

1. Test all electronics for good working order
2. Navigation

i. GPS

ii. Electronic Charting - Are electronic charts included?

3. Depth sounder – Upper and lower units?
4. Radar Check for Coverage i.e. 24 Mile is a good minimum for navigation/anti-collision
5. Radio

i. VHF – Upper and lower units?

ii. SSB – Single Side Band while not necessary can be useful for long range cruising

iii. AM/FM –CD ?

6. Sniffers – Are the following sniffers onboard and working?

i. Propane

ii. CO₂

iii. Gasoline

16. Heating

1. Test the boat heating system through a full cycle of the system turning on and turning off. Run the heating system and let the boat heat up to a comfortable range. Once again use your nose. If it's a diesel heater do you smell diesel?

17. Propellers

1. The original CHB Vessels came with 3 blade props and in many cases were later fitted with 4 blade props as props needed replacing. Whether a 3 or 4 blade prop, a balanced prop is essential; an unbalanced prop will cause vibration. Prop size and pitch can have an impact on vessel speed, hull vibrations, engine load and rpm. Props are generally always sized by diameter then pitch e.g. 22 x 18-3 blade, or 24 x 22-4 blade and additionally props will be either RH (right hand) or LH (left hand).
2. Check the prop for corrosion, look at the thickness of the blades and color of the bronze if that’s the material the prop is made of. A red color alerts to electrolysis. When on sea trials pay attention to vibration and when it occurs, i.e. at what rpm. Does the vessel vibrate while idling? Also record the RPM and speed of the vessel at WOT. (Wide open Throttle). Lehman Diesel Engines operate nicely around 2200 RPM and can go continuously. On 34 foot tri-cabin hull a Lehman 120, over a 600 mile trip, burned and average 1.5 GPH. On WOT depending on wind and tide she ran from 6 to 9 knots, but the average running speed is around 7.5 knots.